Wednesday, April 05, 2006

What's Growin' On: 4/5/06

Tomatoes & More In The Greenhouse


San Marzano Tomato Seedlings (started from my '05 seeds)



Various Tomato & Pepper Seedlings In Individual Plugs



More Than Ready For Individual Containers

The other day I finally moved the last flat of pepper and tomato seedlings from their indoor home (tucked under a standard flourescent shop light that we hung from the bottom bookshelf in my office--a super use of previously unused space, though not Doodle proof of course) into the greenhouse.

Despite nighttime temperatures that continue to dip into the 20sF, the tomato plants are doing just fine, thanks to the hastily constructed "greenhouse within a greenhouse" they've been living in, along with regular servings of their favorite elixir--diluted llama pellet tea. It's so important for seedlings in containers to receive enough fertilizer (especially if you have them growing in a soilless--meaning nutrient-less--potting medium).

I have six containers of seedlings that still need to be transplanted into individual plugs and cups. As you can see in the photos, I use either styrofoam cups (stop cringing--I've been using the same ones for 10 years) or, for smaller plants, individual plastic plugs that come in various sizes. These are a great space saver, too. About 10 years ago I mail-ordered a whole bunch of plugs and the black plastic trays they fit in. The bulk price was much, much less than buying just a few at a time. I like to stock up on things like that so I don't have to worry about purchasing them each year. Also, if you are gentle with your transplanting (even though they aren't reallyl meant to be), your plugs can be used over and over.

I write the name of the plant directly on the styrofoam cups with a black Sharpie permanent marker. For the plugs, I make tags using strips of plastic cut from yogurt and sour cream containers, usually the ones made from #5 plastic since it is not recyclable around here (another example of Gardening On The Cheap--and Recycling In The Garden). These work really well--just don't use a red Sharpie, as the writing will fade in the sun and suddenly you will have no idea what is what.

These seeds were started on March 8th and really should have been transplanted already. They are:

Lemon Cucumbers (Pinetree seeds, '06)
An 1894 heirloom that I just love. Last year I had a lemon cucumber explosion--in a good way, though it did get a little scary going out into the garden once the incredibly happy (and prolific) vines had not only taken over an entire 4'x8'bed, but the entire surrounding 4' wide walkway in all directions as well. Don't ask why I bought more seeds and didn't use some from last year's best specimens. Actually, I think there are some seeds still sitting out in the garden--maybe they'll sprout on their own.

Tomatillo Verde (Baker Creek seeds, '06)
I absolutely love cooked tomatillo salsa but haven't grown tomatillos in years--mainly due to a space shortage. I used to put up jars and jars of the stuff and then use them to make the most delicious enchiladas. Tomatillos have always done well for me in Missouri, and I'm looking forward to having them in the garden once again. (If I can locate my salsa recipe, I'll be happy to share it.)

Riesentraube Tomato (Baker Creek, '06)
This German heirloom (the name means "giant bunch of grapes") is a new tomato for me. It produces 1 ounce fruits that grow in clusters (hence the name). I was swayed by the luscious photo in the catalog and the phrases in the description: "rich, full of flavor" and "large plants produce massive yields." For $1.50, how could I resist?

Brandywine Tomato (Baker Creek, '06)
This was my "free packet with every order" packet this year. Brandywines date back to 1885 and are the most well known heirloom around. This large, pink tomato is indeed incredibly delicious, but in the past I have had problems with the fruits cracking (as happens with most varieties of very large tomatoes). Blossom end rot was a problem at times as well, though I think I have that licked (it has to do with a calcium deficiency in the soil brought about by excess rain or watering). We'll see. The seedlings look great, so I have high hopes for these.

Millionaire Tomato (Baker Creek, '06)
Another new variety for me. This 1950s, "richly flavored" variety from the Ozarks is coral pink and ought to do well here. Can't wait to see the color.

VFN (mine, '01)
I started a second batch of these seeds since the germination rate was so low the first time (not surprise since the seeds are five years old). Both batches are doing fine. This is a standard, salad type heirloom tomato that gets its name from the diseases it is resistant to: Vercillium Wilt, Fusillium Wilt, and something else I can't remember off the top of my head. Joe likes them because they look like "regular" tomatoes, size- and color-wise. I like them because they are dependable in the garden. And of course we both love the superb flavor.

As mentioned previously, I garden by the moonsigns as much as I can (I need all the help I can get), so if the weather is warm enough by then (iffy since we can get frosts well past our offical frost date of April 15th), I will start transplanting tomato plants into the garden on the fertile days in the third quarter--April 14th, 15th, 19th, and 20th. We are lucky to have quite a few fertile days this month, especially when there is so much to do in the garden. (Yes, I promise I will go into more about this soon, but in the meantime, I will let you know when the upcoming "good" days are to do things, and you can try to schedule your gardening activities around them if you so desire.)

When transplanting tomatoes into the garden, these are the two things I always do, and I know they make a difference.

1. Put one teaspoon of Epsom Salts (NOT table salt, find it in the pharmacy section) in the bottom of each tomato hole.

2. Before you plant your tomato seedling, pinch off all of the leaves except the top two or three and then bury the entire plant up to those leaves (you may have to lay it sideways in the ground--that's fine). I know, this sounds like some sort of bizarre plant (and gardener) torture, but believe me, once you get over your initial fears of realizing that you just turned your large and happy plant you have been babying for weeks into three dinky leaves, you will thank me. All those places where you pinched off the leaves will put out roots, giving your plant a strong, healthy base.

I think that's it for now. Time to head back outdoors. It's another beautiful spring day. Beyond the garden gate, the woods are filled with dogwood and redbud blooms. This really is a lovely time of year here.
Note: It is definitely not too late to start your own tomato plants from seed. The best time to start tomato, pepper, squash, and eggplant seeds are on fertile days in the second quarter--April 6th and April 12th this month. Don't miss the full moon April 13th! (But don't start your seeds that day.)

Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Operation Onion Planting Complete!


Halfway prepared raised bed


Yellow, white, and red oinons ready to be covered with soil. (No reason to pull up the volunteer garlic plants.)


My faithful gardening companion wasn't quite as helpful as when we planted the garlic together last fall.

On Saturday (as planned!) I prepared and then planted one of my 4'x8' raised beds with onion sets. For more about planting onions, click here to read my previously published article on Farmgirl Fare, "Onions In The Garden."

This bed was covered with a thick layer of sheep manure last winter which I worked into the soil with my hoe. This is some beautiful dirt, but it may be a bit too fertile. Instead of large and luscious onions, I may end up with lots of greens and little bulbs. We'll see. A good lesson either way.

And yes, the onions are planted much too close together, but I do that every year. This time I managed to cram in all but about four or five little onions. I'll be thinning and enjoying early spring onions soon!

Usually as soon as the onion sprouts emerge, I mulch between the rows with a thick layer of grass clippings, pretty much effectively smothering all but a few easily plucked out weeds for the entire growing season. But after doing some reading on using companion plants to help block out weeds (and then writing about it as a viable option in the above mentioned article), I figured maybe I should give it a try.

So after covering the onions with soil and tamping it down with my trusty hoe, I marked the five rows with bamboo stakes and then scattered four rows of seeds between the onion rows. Here's what I planted:

Standing on south side of plot looking north:

--Red Onions
--Beets, Detroit, (from Pinetree Garden Seeds '06, 63 days) left half & Bull's Blood (Baker's Creek Heirloom Seeds '05) right half
--Red, Yellow, & White Onions
--Beets, Lutz Winter Keeper (Pinetree '05, 80 days)
--White Onions
--Lettuce, Amish Deer Tongue (BC '04)
--Yellow Onions
--Lettuce, Dark Lollo Rossa (BC '04--didn't have great germination with these when started in containers so sowed thickly just to use them up)
--Yellow Onions

Using my watering can, I soaked the plot with several gallons of water. Then we had a heavy downpour Saturday night--perfect. The ground should be nice and wet.

This will be an interesting experiment. I figure the worst that will happen is that so many weeds will sprout along with the beets and lettuce that I will end up pulling them all up, feeding them to the chickens, and mulching with grass clippings as usual. But the best case scenario? Tender lettuce in a few weeks, baby beet greens not long after that, and three kinds of beets in a couple of months, all from space that usually goes unplanted.

© FarmgirlFare.com

Friday, March 31, 2006

After The Storm



Yesterday's weather was just plain weird. Unseasonably hot (upper 70s), so windy that at one point I caught myself staring up at the hillside of leafleses trees above the barn, wondering how it could sound like a gigantic waterfall. Stormclouds blew across the sky at record speeds. A few of them finally slowed down in the middle of the night--long enough to drop a fair amount of rain on the farm, waking me with the comforting sound of raindrops splattering onto our old tin roof.

This morning the sunshine is brighter than bright, all of the new spring green is thirstily slurping up the much needed moisture, and the birds are on full-blown chirp. It's one of those days where you know that if you just slow down for a minute, you'll actually be able to see the grass grow. But with onion sets to plant, a newborn baby in the barn, and a laundry line just crying out to be filled with crisp, clean sheets billowing in the breeze, who has time to slow down?

Thursday, March 30, 2006

Book Recommendation: The Vegetable Gardener's Bible by Edward C. Smith



I've recommended The Vegetable Gardener's Bible more than once on Farmgirl Fare, and for good reason—it's an excellent source of information, especially if you're a beginning gardener. I recently came across a review I wrote when it was first published back in 2001. Five years later, everything still holds true—and this continues to be one of the few gardening books I find myself turning to again and again.

If you are only going to buy one edible gardening book, I encourage you to make it this one. It also makes a great gift. Need more convincing? Here's my original review:

I'm an avid gardener and confessed gardening book junkie. I never trust just one authority, preferring instead to consult several sources. But that was before I came across The Vegetable Gardener's Bible by Ed Smith. This is a book every gardener should own. It is the only publication an absolute beginner needs to start planting, while experienced growers will probably find their other gardening books gathering dust soon after buying it.

The basis of the book revolves around Ed's high yield "W-O-R-D" system: Wide rows, Organic methods, Raised beds, Deep soil. Ed, who gardens in brutal Northern Vermont, claims that anyone following his simple techniques—refined over 30 years—can grow their best gardens ever with higher yields and less work. And while his proven system (and arguments for applying it) make remarkable sense, the book goes far beyond simply describing high-intensity, natural gardening.

It's packed with practical information for gardeners of all levels, and manages to skillfully cover such wide-ranging topics as building raised beds and trellises, choosing a seed supplier, taking a soil sample, and making homemade bug spray—all in a highly approachable manner that is interesting and fun to read.

The book is divided into three parts. Part 1, From Seed To Harvest, explains Ed's W-O-R-D methods and shows you how to implement them. Part 2, The Healthy Garden, takes an in-depth look at soil, composting, and natural pest controls. Part 3, Vegetables & Herbs A-Z, is the most useful plant directory I have come across.

Along with detailed sections for each plant on sowing and growing, harvesting and storing, and the best varieties, there are helpful tips and a quick-reference "sow and grow" sidebox that lists everything from sowing dates and nutrient requirements to good and bad companions, rotation considerations, and seed longevity.

The text is supplemented with 550 color photos and several handy charts and lists. The sidebars of practical tidbits alone—how to sharpen a garden hoe, how to make your own non-toxic wood preservative—are worth the price of the book. The numerous ingenious—and seemingly obvious—ideas had me constantly saying, "Of course!"

And yet I'd never thought to weed around fragile seedlings with scissors. Or to put rampantly spreading mint plants in containers and then simply tuck the containers among my cabbages to deter cabbage moths. Or to lay out new garden beds with a sprinkling flour rather than lime, which I never have around. In fact, it was all I could do to keep reading; after every few pages I wanted to dash out to the garden and try another of Ed's suggestions.

Bound to become a perennial favorite, the word on The Vegetable Gardener's Bible is a resounding yes!

© FarmgirlFare.com

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

Coming Up


Volunteer Arugula In The Greenhouse

Thanks to all of you for the enthusiastic response to my new baby blog--it's really inspiring. This is just a quick note to tell you about a few things I plan to write about here soon. Some of them are in response to your comments and questions, some are pretty much just for my benefit, and some will hopefully be helpful to those of you with gardens of your own. All of them should make this a more well rounded, interesting site:

--The one gardening tool I absolutely cannot live without (and it's only $12.98)
--My very favorite edible gardening book
--More about minding the moonsigns (and a list each month of the "good" planting days)
--A bit about raised beds (including why I love mine so much)
--Growing greens: lettuce & beyond
--A new feature called From Garden To Table (a record of what I eat when from the garden). Six things went into Sunday's salad--not bad for the end of March in Zone 5!

I've also been snapping lots of photos, like the one above taken yesterday. I'm really looking forward to having an ongoing, detailed visual record of what's going on in the garden for the first time.

In the meantime, if you're interested in starting seeds, there is quite a bit of handy information in the comments section of this Farmgirl Fare post. And if you have a gardening pal who might enjoy this blog, I hope you'll spread the word. Thanks so much. Wishing you good growing.

Sunday, March 26, 2006

It's Time To Plant Onions!



Red, white and yellow onion sets

Well, almost time at least. I'm giving you a little advanced warning. If you garden by the moon signs (I figure I need all the help I can get), then you'll want to plant your onions on a fertile day in the first quarter.* During this moon cycle, they are Friday, March 31st and Saturday, April 1st. After that, the next fertile first quarter days aren't until April 28th, 29th, and May 2nd, 3rd, and 4th--which is getting a bit late for starting onions.

As you can see, I'm all set to go with my three varieties of onion sets. As long as your ground isn't still frozen, you can safely start your onions anytime now, but you really should do it on Friday or Saturday. They're very hardy and once sprouted will survive even hard frosts (we're still having morning temperatures in the low 20s) with no problems. Onions are a wonderful addition to any garden, and they can be popped into even the smallest spaces.

So why do I buy onion sets rather than starting them from seed (like everything else in my garden)? The answer to this question is in one of the first articles I posted on Farmgirl Fare back in June of 2005, "Onions In The Garden," which also includes photos, planting instructions, and some newly added growing tips. Just click here to read it.

*Seeds to start on fertile first quarter days include: flowers, lettuce, all other leafy greens, cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli and cabbage, cucumbers, beans, and peas. (Pretty much anything except members of the tomato/squash/pepper family--which you want to start on fertile days in the second quarter).

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

What's Growin' On: 3/22/06

22 Degrees F At 7:00am


Garlic Is Hardy, It Should Recover Just Fine



And Kohlrabi's Hardy, Too, Right?

Note to self: Just because the calendar says 'spring,' doesn't mean you should blow off covering up newly sprouted plants in the garden.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Past Inspiration


Looking Toward The Hayfield 4/20/03



Garden & Greenhouse 4/20/03



Spring Greens 4/20/03

What's Growin' On: 3/19/06


My Favorite Kind Of Flower--No Maintenance!

March 17th, 18th, and 19th were all fertile days in the third quarter, so I was busy planting and transplanting. Fortunately the weather cooperated most of the time.

Planted one raised bed of potatoes (leftovers from last year, mostly Russets, few Yukon Golds, didn't bother to cut them up, just planted whole). Put them in a bed that had lots of mucked out barn hay put in it several months ago. Soil looks great. Potatoes should love it.

Transplanted about a dozen plugs of lettuce seedlings into the edge of the bed where I'd directed seeded several varieties of lettuce (they sprouted well and are looking good): one green variety--lost tag--and a few Dark Lolla Rossa, very small. This was an experiment: first time I'd sowed the seeds in individual plugs instead of in little containers and then moved them into the plugs. Should have thinned out the plugs to one or two plants in each (duh); had great germination rates and ended up with about 10 tiny plants in each little plug. A real mess trying to transplant the tender seedlings into the garden. I just planted the entire clumps. We'll see what happens.

Transplanted pepper seedlings started on 2/6/06 into individual containers:
--Orange Bell (my 2005 seeds)
--My favorite huge sweet red pepper Aconcagua (my 2005 seeds)

Transplanted tomato seedlings started on 2/6/06 into individual containers:
--Thai Pink Egg, incredibly prolific last year (mine 2005)
--Kellogg's Breakfast giant orange tomatoes (Baker Creek 2005 seeds)
--Arkansas Traveler, medium sized pink (BC 2003 seeds)
--English Moneymaker, good in greenhouses (BC 2003 seeds)
--Yellow Plum (mine 2005)
--San Marzano Paste (mine 2005)
--Orange Banana, so sweet last year (mine 2005)
--VFN, standard red heirloom, disease resistant variety (my seeds--old)
--My Secret New Hybrid (2005 seeds)

Note: All seedlings (before transplanting) had major growth spurts when I started watering them with llama manure tea.

Miscellaneous:
--Direct seeded lettuces had great germination rate. Have them in mini greenhouse plot, just covered with an old sheet (Joe calls it the covered wagon plot) . Have removed all other sheets and blankets from plots as we have had milder temps and rain. 20s predicted this week, though, so may need to re-cover turnips, Spanish black radish, pathetic looking chard plants (something has been eating them!), and strawberries.

--Purple kohlrabi seeds came up like crazy, but the cold season greens in that plot have yet to sprout (mache, Bloomsdale Longstanding spinach, New Zealand spinach). Why do I still insist upon trying to grow spinach? Why? (Note to self: remember the definition of insanity--doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.)

--Daffodils blooming all around the yard. So pretty. I think of them as the color 'cheerful.'

--Lilacs are budding. Tiny sucker plants I put into little pots 5 years ago and never got around to transplanting are now about four feet high, growing straight through their pots into the ground, and no doubt cannot be moved from their odd location in the midst of the compost bins. They even have tiny flowers on them this year! Oh well, I'll take lilacs anywhere I can get them. Must really think about trying to move them, though. But to where?

--Volunteer arugula (rocket) coming up like crazy in greenhouse since I thought to water the entire bed. Yay! Chard and beets survived winter and are starting to grow again. So dark green and purple. They loved the llama pellets I scattered all over the bed.

Looking Back: Building a Simple, Inexpensive, Homemade Greenhouse

August 2002: We had a cement footer poured, then built short cinderblock walls. The interior of the greenhouse is 7½ feet wide by 21 feet long.

The wire frame is made from five 16 foot x 52 inch cattle panels (which have countless uses and are available at farm stores) that are fastened together with tie wire. The ceiling is about 8 feet high in the center.


The finished greenhouse in April 2003



The greenhouse interior in April 2003

The greenhouse interior in May 2003

There's more information about constructing the greenhouse in the comments section of this post.

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Greenhouse Within A Greenhouse

When Spring And Snow Are Both Predicted


Yesterday's Quick Thinking Handiwork



My Heirloom Tomato & Pepper Seedlings Are Safe & Warm

Our weather is anything but predictable. Spring may officially start tomorrow, but sleet and snow and freezing temperatures are also in the forecast. So after transplanting about 150 tender tomato and pepper seedlings into individual containers yesterday, and then realizing there was no way they would all fit under my one four-foot flourescent plant light in the house, we created a temporary mini greenhouse inside my 8-foot by 22-foot homemade greenhouse. (Click here for a peek at my potting bench and tips on starting your own seeds.)

A two-tiered plant stand was simply covered with thick plastic and clamped to the sides of the structure. There are cardboard "walls" on the left and right, and a large piece of cardboard under the bottom shelf (not visible in the photo). Also tucked under the bottom shelf is a radiator type space heater set on low (600 watts). These are very safe, fairly inexpensive to run, and even have an automatic thermostat so I can just leave it on all the time.

Today is cold and cloudy so I am keeping the mini greenhouse closed up, but when the sun pokes out, I will simply roll up the plastic during the day and roll it back down at night.

This was a spur of the moment, makeshift effort, completely created from materials we already had laying around. I call it Gardening On The Cheap. It may not be beautiful, but it does the job. I do not have a Glamour Garden. The only things I'm really concerned with are the finished products. I can practically taste those luscious, vine-ripened tomatoes now.

Note: This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging #24, a deliciously informative event hosted by Kalyn's Kitchen. Food bloggers from around the world participate, and you never know what interesting new edibles you'll discover each week in the Sunday night roundup.